Opinions, Unexpected Surprises, and Conclusion

Opinions

Highlights - The People - People in every country and from every country were warm, welcoming and helpful. We came away with new friends and warm feeling from the people we encountered. When possible, people went out of their way to help us. When language was a barrier, everyone made efforts to communicate in anyway possible. They were interested in us, our culture and our travel experiences, including how we were enjoying their country. Their concern for our enjoyment of their country was often expressed, by common folk, to the police. A common question to us was "what you think of our country?" I guess ours might be the same…

Low-lights - The Garbage - It was sad to see the garbage strewn along the roadside and in towns and in ditches, creeks, rivers and the ocean. Plastic bags caught on shrubs, and trees,, plastic bottles everywhere. Many countries in South and Central Americas used the roadsides as garbage dumps, dumping everything from plastic to building materials. They just don't get that everything that floats will end up in the ocean. The mountain of plastic in the South Pacific ocean is growing at an astonishing rate. What is going to be done about it and when?

Unexpected Surprises
1 - Wind - I expected Patagonia wind to come in off the ocean but it flows from the west and out towards the ocean. I guess its because of the earth's rotation, but I thought the mountains would stop the wind, apparently it doesn't.
2 - The temperature in South America - I expected it to be warmer! We had to use our electric jackets to keep warm for many and most of the South American countries. Partially due to the elevations we were traveling at 3500 - 4000 meters throughout the Andes Highlands, but apparently due also to the Humboldt ocean currents that bring icy waters from Antarctica up to the Equator and circulate it throughout the South Pacific. Even the Galapagos Islands ocean temperatures were cooler than expected.
3 - Driving and Drivers - Initially I thought the drivers were crazy, but after driving as the locals drive, it became apparent that they were very good drivers for very good reasons. Insurance is very expensive so many and most can't afford insurance so they have to be more careful while scooting in and out of traffic. The weaving of drivers didn't seem to bother other drivers and there was no "Road Rage" as in North America. If a driver wanted to get ahead of another, there must be a good reason. Motorcycles, while small and maneuverable, were able to drive in between cars and trucks, thus not plugging valuable road space. Accidents were much less common because people while driving quickly and closely, were more attentive to the conditions instead of being distracted by unnecessary hand-held devices, eating, putting on makeup, reading the newspaper and the likes, in North America.   If there is a "Fender bender" it is dealt with on the spot instead having the person's insurance agent getting involved.
4 - People take responsibility for their own actions - For example in South and Central Americas, Guardrails on roads and walkways are virtually non-existent. If you walk or drive off a drop-off its your fault for not being careful. Its not someone else's fault for not putting up a guard rail….. The guardrail is a respected courtesy instead of an expected necessity.
5 - My riding partner - While Michael is my son, I didn't know what to expect being in close proximity with him for 6 months. I wondered if our opinions, interests and riding styles would cause us conflicts, but it quickly became apparent that I had chosen the best possible partner for this trip. About 2 months into the trip, I noticed that we were finishing the other persons' sentences and stories, just like an old married couple. We never had a fight, but snipped at one another occasionally. Then again, who doesn't. I was very proud of the way he interacted with everyone we encountered. He was always respectful and engaging. We went away as father and son, came back friends.

Conclusion

A common question to us has been about our security and if we ever felt threatened. My answer is no. In all the countries that we visited, we always felt comfortable. I don't know how many people told us that we were traveling to the most dangerous city in the world and each place was always warm and friendly. As mentioned earlier the people were universally wonderful. Had we heeded everyone's advice about the dangers in different countries, we would never have started this trip. Of course if we went looking for trouble, I'm sure we could find it. But then, I'm sure we could find trouble at home if we went looking for it here as well.  South and Central Americas are much more current and up to date than we thought they would be. I am sure that we can learn as much from them as they can learn from us. My advise is to travel. Be respectful and use your manners. Please and thank-you, go a long way. Remember that you are a guest in their country, respect their traditions and culture and have fun.

Last Day!

March 27, 2011

Last day! Up at 7am. Didn't sleep much last night due to the anticipation of the border crossing and getting home to see my wife, family and friends. Julie set up a surprise welcome home party and accidentally emailed me the whole history. So I knew that we would see a bunch of friends too… Ride home was wet and cold, as expected, but the weather got better the closer to the border we got. Border was a 10 minute wait and a few questions, as normal. Got home ahead of schedule about 3:30pm with Julie, Sam, sis-in-law Sheri, Bro-in-law Rob, friends Loren, Sherrie, and Chris waiting. Miranda, Andrew and many friends started arriving and kept on coming.. Great to see all their smiling faces after 6 months on the road. After the excitement of seeing everyone, I started to crash as the lack of sleep, ride and excitement started to catch up. Its so nice t be at home.

SNOW!

March 26, 2011

SNOW! Woke up this morning and found 8 inches of snow on our bikes! Checked out the internet and found that we have about 250kms of high mountain passes with a heavy snowfall warnings. Went for breakfast in a snowstorm and talked to some locals. They suggested a UHaul van to truck the bikes north. Contacted a few companies and found a van that could be delivered from the next own north "Weed". Loaded the bikes and on the road by 11:30am. Roads were better than the Mount Shasta side roads. Drove 180 miles dropped of the van and unloaded the bikes. Rode the rest of the way and arrived at Bill and Barb's on time. They had a great chicken dinner waiting and had a great visit with them and their friends Karl and Ramona.

Mount Shasta, 8 inches of snow

 

Bill and Barb and their beloved Wings

March 25, 2011

Again, we had to say our goodbyes to Bob and Nancy and we were on the road about 8am. Fully suited up for cold and rain, we hit cold rain on the Grapevine. Down the hill into Bakersfield things dried out and warmed up to near 14ºc. This temp remained for most of the day, but by Sacramento, heavy rain showers started. It would rain and then dry out, then more rain. By Redding it was getting cold. By the time we quit riding for the day, there is snow all over the sides of the roads and cold cold rain. Stopped in Mount Shasta for the night.

Makeshift wind and rain deflectors made from 2 liter water jugs strapped to hand guards

March 24, 2011

We said our goodbyes to our friends, Bill and Susan Trask, who were wonderful hosts. We appreciated being able to use their garage for repairs and their home as an oasis away from home. Looking forward to seeing them in our neck of the woods again. On the road temperatures were 9-14ºc. When we got near Lancaster, we rode over a pass and the temp dropped to 5ºc. Arrived to Bob and Nancy's on time about 4pm. They were waiting for us. We met Bob and Nancy through the Motorcycle Travel Network and they are also Goldwing Road Rider members. We have met many wonderful friends through both of these organizations and Bob and Nancy are no exception. Wonderful friendly people, made us feel right at home. Nancy made us a great Chilli dinner and we chatted the evening away.

 Bob and Nancy

Car battery wired into the bike, plug for quick disconnect.

March 23, 2011

Installed my front wheel back onto the bike and the seal arrives at 10am. Wow was that quick, only 16 hours from Colorado. Installed the seal, new chain and Bill took us for a ride to Prescott, the first capital of Arizona. Great ride, nice twists, got to scuff the wax of the new tires. Oil seal didn't leak a drop , but then I think it was damaged do to something hitting it. Then out to dinner to the Phoenix Coyote centre. Nice new mall area next to their coliseum.

March 22, 2011

After deliberating last night, I decided to pull the bike apart and check it out. Thought that the bearing may have failed, but after removal of the seal, the bearing appears fine. Phoned around to find a seal and there is nothing locally. Phoned one shop who said it could be ordered and was 3-5 days away. I have an account with RockymountainATV and ordered from them with air freight. It should be here about 4pm tomorrow. Another shop wanted to charge us $65 dollars a tire to re and re our new tires, so Michael and I changed them ourselves. This is no small fete as these tires are tubeless radial tires and difficult to manually break the beads. Once the new tires are installed on the rims, we put them loosely on the bikes and statically balanced them ourselves. Oil is changed, bikes should be in good shape (other than my charging problem) and ready once the new oil seal is installed. This puts us behind our schedule by a day, if the seal arrives on time. Susan has been feeding us excellent food and Bill has taken us everywhere we needed to go today. They have been so wonderful.

Second last border crossing!

March 21, 2011

Second last border crossing! Michael and I couldn't sleep well. Up at about 3:30am, so watched a movie. On the road just after 7am.. Got to the border and the lineup was about 2kms long. Street venders told us to go down the fast lane, we didn't disagree and jumped to the front of the line. Right after entering the USA, Michael yells on the CB, scares me because he saw an IHOP and we hadn't eaten yet. Stop for gas and my bike is leaking oil. Down the road another hour and and my batteries die. We stop at a rest area to swap out the battery with Michael's battery. Confirmed my bike's oil is leaking and topped it up. Down the road and it starts to rain. Don our rain gear and we arrived at our friends (Bill and Susan) in Phoenix about 2 pm. Turns out that the output shaft seal on the engine is leaking. Michael suggests buying a truck and loading the bike on. When we get home, he has a vehicle.

March 20, 2011

Time changed in Los Mochis, so we didn't have to get up early. Rode to Magdalena de Kino, about 50 miles south of Nogales. We got here and started charging the car battery. The battery charger then proceeded to catch on fire... Completely smoked! I think we have enough of a charge to get to our friend's house in Glendale, Arizona,  but only time will tell. Worst case is that we will have to switch out battery with Michael's bike. Tomorrow is our last Spanish border crossing and this is our last full day in Latin America. Español has been trying and stressful for me. I like to communicate but feel inadequate down in Latin America. I am looking forward to being able to speak english to most the people I meet.

March 19, 2011

Up early, had coffee with Dad and Lynda and on the road by 7:30am. Rode hard all day to Los Mochis.

March 18, 2011

Took the bikes out and rode into town to check out my old haunts. The last time I was here was the mid 90s. This town is much much larger. Showed Michael our old timeshare and carried on to Christine's house in Bucerias. Couldn't stay with her as originally planned because she has friends (a family of 4), but it turns out that her friend married an old school chum of mine, so we arrived early to visit with them, while Christine was at Spanish classes. It was great to see Jim again, and meet his family, wife, Donna, son, Jesse and daughter Sierra.

We had to leave and get back to Dad's cause they are taking us to see the Xuitla Dancers and needed to arrive early. Arrived, met their friends, had dinner and and secured the best seats in the house, according to Dad. The Xuitla Dancers are teenagers that are allowed to dance until they get married. They dressed in traditional costumes of the different provinces of Mexico and danced their traditional dances. The costumes were gorgeous, the dances were mellow to spectacular and the dancers had fantastic talent. Dad and Lynda them every Friday night and have got to know many. It was a privilege to experience the performance that Dad and Lynda enjoy so much.

March 17, 2011

Went into town and had breakfast with Dad and Lynda and my cousion Christine. Great to see her. Its been a while too. Nice, relaxing day, without Michael as he and Lynda went to a local garden that his boss from Minter Gardens knows. Unfortunately the person was away on holidays up in Canada. Michael and Lynda had a great day wandering around the grounds. We went for dinner on the Malecon. Boy has it changed since the last time I was in Puerto Vallarta.

 Dad, Hieko and Lynda on one of their sundecks

Sunset from their deck

March 16, 2011

Relaxing day, Dad and Lynda are treating us like royalty, by making us Bacon and Eggs for breaky.  Lynda washes all of our cloths, including riding gear, while we attend to the back wheel bearings and broken latch. Done, batteries charged, Blog update time. Only one thing to worry about now….Tires. 2000 kilometers to arrive at our friends, Bill and Susan's in Phoenix where our new set of tires awaits, but the fronts are getting thin, very thin.. Mine especially, because of my fat ass, I guess?

Tire wear due to the camber of the roads and the winds in Patagonia

You say Topes, I say Tappas!

March 15, 2011

On the road at 7:15am as we are on a mission to get Dad and Lynda's today.  These stupid speed bumps really do a great job of stopping the traffic and every day, my bike bottoms out many times. There are big, high sharp bumps, low rolling ones, multiple bumps, worn out bumps, painted bumps, unpainted bumps, hidden in the shade bumps and unexpected bumps. About an hour into our ride, we are flying along and all of a sudden I see a bump thats totally unexpected and I brake real hard! With no brake lights on my bike, because I can't afford the electrical drain, and Michael paying attention to a girl on the side of the road, he doesn't see me in time braking hard, hits his brakes, swerves and his side bag hits mine. Mine is blown right off my bike and slides down the highway beside me as I slow to stop . His side bag breaks apart, opens up and shit gets strewn down the road while he drives off the road and stops while keeping is bike upright. I'm okay, he's oaky, my pannier has a broken latch, we pickup the remnants of his saddlebag, put it all back in, even with its cracked lid, strap my pannier back onto my bike with a tiedown strap and without saying 10 words to one another, we are off back down the road. At gas, we ask each other a few questions and carry on. We are both aware how close we came to having a terrible outcome and it doesn't need to be discussed. We are both lucky and we both know it. Down the road a few more hours, and Michael wants to stop to check his tire because his bike is wobbling. His tire pressure is okay, but we notice his wheel bearing are loose. While they are not loose enough to cause a wobble yet, they will need attending to. They are probably worn out due to the fact that Michael likes to jump tappas, but he won't believe me if I tell him… Down the road further, we pass a truck at a set of tappas and the top box thats strapped on from a previous encounter decides to pop off Michael's bike, but is left dangling by its strap. Lucky for the strap, otherwise we would likely have lost the box completely. Reinstalled, strapped back in and tightened, we are enroute again. These tappas are getting to me. I'm looking forward to driving without unnecessary, unexpected slowings for no reasonable reasons. I guess they are silent police, but I don't like them. We arrive to Dad and Lynda's on time at about 5pm with them watching for us and waving from their balcony. When we turn into their driveway, I stall the bike and the battery doesn't have enough to start the bike, but we made it!!! Its great to see them after 5 1/2 months on the road.

March 14, 2011

On the road at 8am, we go searching for the elusive battery charger. After 5 shops and explaining to numerous people in spanglish of our needs, one person writes down our requirement and we are pointed to another store, to no avail. Then we resort to driving up and down streets that Javier took us the day before and saw an open store that sells tools. Sure enough, the have one.. By now its after 9am and we are on the road. Made it through Acapulco with only one small mistake and carry on to Zihuatanejo.  Made it to our destination with battery charge to spare. Plugged the battery in and was it ever low, but we made it. Stayed on the highway and picked up a hotel.

Charging Problems in Mexico

March 13, 2011

Up early, start pulling the bike apart searching for a connector that has pulled apart. Nothing! Search further and by now all the fairings and gas tank are off the bike. Still nothing. Michael takes my back tire off as I have had a slow leak for a few days now and numerous plugs have not cured the problem. Needs a patch from the inside. Javier, the hotel owner, takes us in search of a multi-tester and a vulcanologist on a local election day Sunday. Multi-tester and repaired tire in hand we head back. Pull up my service manual on the computer and check the alternator and regulator with factory specs. They are screwed! What next? OK, Frankenstein the bike! Javier takes me back into town for a car battery to sit on the back seat to strap down and be wired inline with bike battery and a battery charger to charge it every night. Battery bought, installed it onto the bike with a plugin for quick removal and charging. Pulled all the fuses so that I can run the bare essentials of fuel injection and ignition. All lights off and no speedo or dash. All stores are now closed. Have to deal with the charger in the morning on our way out of town. Javier was wonderful! Couldn't help us enough. We are very appreciative of all of his help and his wife is an excellent cook! Puerto Escondido is a nice, small town and the people appeared very friendly.

Julie's Birthday

March 12, 2011

Julie's Birthday… Rode hard to Puerto Escondido. About 150kms from our destination, my bike starts doing a funky chicken with the ABS light coming on and going off and then my dash starts going dead and coming back on and then the fuel injection light comes on and the FI starts flashing on the dash… Passing a vehicle, the bike starts missing and then dies in the middle of nowhere. Oh Shit! Dead battery! Remove the battery from my bike and start removing Michael's, the battery connections is seized and corroded. Drill the top of the battery bolt and switch batteries. Pulled the headlight fuses and push started Michael's bike, which now has my battery. Road to Puerto Escondido and just as we found a hotel the bike quits again. Beer time!! 6:30 at night. Sun going down the only thing left to do is dinner and cervasa.

Mexico Border

March 11, 2011

Up early and on the road. Hard riding today as there are many little towns with lots of speed bumps. Lots of twists and turns, some of the road surface was rough with numerous potholes. About 4pm the skys open up on us just about 10 minutes from the border. After waiting it out for awhile under a gas station cover, we decide to daun our rain gear and head to the border. Border crossing was the easiest yet, a helper helped us and we were through the Guatemala side in 15 minutes. The Mexico side took longer but after photo copies and paying an entrance fee, we are in. Then we have to drive through town that has flooded streets from the rain. Once through town, we head to another border thing called Viva Mexico and have to import our bikes. We continue to ride for a while and find a nice basic hotel with parking.

Guatemala Border

March 10, 2011

Border day again. One of my tire plugs leaked overnight and had to replug the tire to start. Put us behind schedule, but Juan takes us to the Ruines while he finishes emails because the hacienda's power was out. Take a tour around the ruins, pics and then on the road.

We arrived at the border as the lady processing our passports leaves for lunch. 3/4 hour later, she arrives back and stamps us out within 5 minutes. Get the bikes stamped out, then we get stamped into Guatemala. Everything is going smoothly until Juan has a problem that his bike can not be let back into Guatemala because of a 3 month import rule. We get stamped through and Jaun has to wait for the administrator to come back from a meeting. We have lunch and the guy does not show, so Michael and I leave Juan. We ride for 2 hours and the sky is darkening and threatening rain. Find a nice hotel and email Juan. He was able to enter, at about 5pm and rode for an hour. Michael and I have decided to ride hard tomorrow as Guatemala is a dirty shit hole. Meaning they use the sides of the roads as dumps. Garbage everywhere….We feel that we can make the Mexican border.

March 9, 2011

Juan wanted to check out this little town so we got a taxi to the central plaza. Nice, clean, like many central plazas we have been to. Down the road to the Copan Ruines. Juan knows of a beautiful hacienda on the hill overlooking the Copan Ruines town. Had dinner and early to bed.