Over the Border to Peru.

Day 9, Oct, 12, 2010

Stayed in a nice place last night and paid for it but it was worth it. Got up at the normal 7 am and had breakfast for the first time on our trip. Traveled to the border and took 2.5 hours getting through, with very little Spanish. The last guy that we dealt with could speak English well, but it was his job. After that we headed north to Moqueque, then Arequipa. Thats where we are now. Saw lots more sand of different colors and types. Today it reminded me of the Badlands of Drumbheller or South Dakota, but a lot badder. These deserts are huge and you get through one and then theres another. We got a giggle on one part coming down a valley and back up. The road was new pavement and lots of twisties. Best road yet.

Michael and I both feel the Peruians seem to be a little friendlier. Seams like Peru is a little cleaner. Chile had lots of litter on the sides of the roads, lots and lots of drink bottles. Why can´t they recycle?

We are staying in a hostel in the industrial area tonight so that we had to take a taxi into town. Michael´s first experience with crazy taxi drivers. He was amazed. Hostel cost 50 soles or about $18, so we can´t complain about no internet.

Right now we are in the central plaza of Arequipa. Streets radiating out from it are a shoppers heaven. These streets are very clean. Had pizza a a Peruvian Pizza joint and it was great. Large pizza cost 33 soles or about $11 dollars.

Not sure how far we will go tomorrow but will be seeing the Nazca Lines. Cool Heh!

Adios amigos

Antofagasto to Arica

Day 8, Oct 11, 2010 Thanks Giving.

Had a great sleep and Michael is feeling better. We rode 750 km today from Antofagasta to Arica. Along the coast to Iquique and then back on to the Pan American Highway. Boy have we been served up a platter of desert and sand. All types. rocks with sand , mountains of sand and rock, plains of sand that make the ones that I rode through in the USA look minuscule in comparison. Saw beaches of sand and towns of sand. Yes, TOWNS of sand. Vegetation is few and far between. Temperature has been mostly about 15-18 c but at one point was up to 32c. Then the side winds, wow!! Anyway, we got to Arica got gas, asked for directions for a hotel and found a nice one right away. Then walked down onto the Centro and found comfort food, (Mcdonalds). Michael knew he could digest it, so what the heck.

Tomorrow we cross the Peru Boarder.

On the Road to Lima

Day 7, Oct, 10, 2010

We both slept well and Michael ate this morning, but then the stomach got upset again. Not so bad.  We rode through the desert all day for 500kms and I was amazed at how little vegetation there was and how much sand and rock we saw. More tomorrow. We arrived in Antofagasta and asked for help to locate a hotel. A nice man showed us to a block with 3 and here we are. The hotel had internet but our computer would not connect so we are at an internet cafe typing to all of you. Bye for now.

Day 6, Oct 9, 2010

We were up bright and early with the fog and mist and wet tents and bike covers and packed up. Michael started getting the trots. Oh Great! We headed for Caldera, a seaside town and found a Hosteria at 1pm and both snuggled in for some shut eye after unpacking our wet stuff. Later I organized our stuff and tended to my sick puppy. Went shopping and got fruit and sandwich makings.

I must say that I was under a lot of stress. I feel way out of my snack bracket with not knowing the language or country. It has been very difficult to communicate when you don´t know the language. Also, I have been trying too hard. In reflection, I just need to take my time and relax.

Day 5, Oct 8, 2010 left Valparaiso

We packed up and said our good-byes to Martina and Enzo. Martina gave me directions and advice where to stay in La Sarena. We got there and found the Hotel, but felt it was too expensive so we drove on expecting to find some town or village with something cheaper. Things didn´t work out and we rode. Finally, after dark, we were hungry and stopped at a local Posada. we thought it was just a resturant, but turns out the dictionary says its a private guesthouse also. We both ate chicken for dinner but Michael had some pasta. Anyway, we decided to find a trail off the road and pitch the tents, and we did. It got cold and foggy, as the Atacama Desert does, and we did not sleep well. Michael says that he felt something crawling under his tent.

Day 3, Oct, 7, 2010, BIKES out of customs and storage

Enzo wanted to leave early to beet the rush at the Aduana in San Antonio. We drove for and 1 hour, 20 minutes in this new country and got to experience Chilean drivers. Martina and Enzo are so organized that we were nearly first in the office and after 1 document that needed to be filled out by customs, we waited for more docs to be made. A few signatures and we were off to find our bikes. At the Warehouse, another lineup and another wait. All considered, it wasn't bad. Then our crates arrived.

We (me, Michael, and 2 or 3 helpers) stripped the the wrap and cardboard off the crates to expose our bikes. They looked so good. Then the customs guy started checking the bike reggies and license plate numbers. My plate number was wrong. Apparently, I submitted the registration from insurance that I canceled, because the insurance would have expired while I was on this trip. So I needed more insurance and it was simpler for our insurance agent to give me new insurance rather than adding to it. Well this caused a major problem for Enzo. He went to work changing things and (we) started assembling Michael's bike as it was good to go. We had just finished the first bike when Enzo, the customs guy and others returned with good news. My bike went together much quicker and we were able to leave. Nice guys at the warehouse terminal.

Then we got our chance to experience the Chilean way of driving, while having to follow Enzo and our Chilean truck driver (Alberto) to Enzo's home.

By this time it is 3 pm and we are hungry. Michael saw a restaurant and wanted to try it. Turns out to be quite the place with a beautiful view for which you pay royally. The waiter brought us things right away and directed his attention to Michael. Michael found out that a view and good service comes at a price. He couldn't say no and we used this as a learning experience. Needless to say dinner was expensive and everything was a-la-carte. Food was good, but we went back to our mom and pop's place for another hamber-guesa and beer. We bought 2 1 litre beers for the cost of 1 corona at the last place. Mom and pop were having a birthday party with their family and were very happy to see us again, I guess it was my good looks. Not! I gave him a nice tip the day before and we used our manners, always!!

Had to pick up cash for all the customs and trucking and Martina and Enzo's help, so we went to the bank ATM. After seeing everything that Martina and Enzo had to do to import our bikes, we knew it would have taken us forever with huge amounts of frustration. Their help was invaluable. Thank-you Martina and Enzo for all you help and having us at your Villakunterbunt Hostel.

Tomorrow, we are off to Lima, Peru, less words, more pictures.

Day 2, Oct 6, 2010, Valparaiso, Chile

We arrived to Martina and Enzos before 7:00am and Carlos with is minimal english and us with or minimal spanish had a wonderful time. The temperature when we arrived in Santiago was 7 C and cooled to 4 C by the time we arrived.

Enzo was up because Carlos phoned him on the way to get directions. During coffee, we met Martina and finally got to put faces to names. They have been so helpful. Enzo took Michael and I for a walk to the shipping companies' office and along the way played tour guide.It turned out that we did not have the original "Bill of Lading" and therefore unable to complete bailing out the motorcycles. He paid for our "Elevator" ride and took us to the Aduana (Customs) Office for a tour. Based on my vage understanding, I think Enzo used to work there. 

After that, Michael and I had to get something to eat and found a basement cafe' and had the best meal of the day. A mom and pop place with numerous locals, some trying to help pop figure out what we wanted.  

The docs came later in the day and we went back down to the office, without any more problems. Just paid our $183.546 pesos for Chilean end Customs fees and we are good to go. 

Me and Mike went back down to the local main street (reminds me of Commercial Street in Vancouver, but having never been there, just and impression) to pick up some pastries from the bakery. We came back eat our stuff and Michael went to the room and passed out. Big long day with nothing but unrestful sitting in the plane and then walking around the local area. Went to bed early and had a well needed sleep.

Day 1, Oct 5, 2010, Flight to Santiago

After arriving @ LAX, we had to scoot down to the Avancia Airline ticket counter and confirm check in to Bogata and Santiago. While in the line up, we started talking to a nice guy who is flying to Guayaquil, Equador. We explain our plans of heading north and flying through Guayaquil on our way to the Galapagos and he invites us to stay the night. As we need a room for our layover, we graciously accept Tony's hospitality. The rest of the check in was great too. Starting to notice the culture difference and having to use more or my very limited Spanish. 

Total flying mileage 7078 Miles. Flying time 18hrs 34 miles Including time zone changes, we arrived @ 4:30 am Santiago time. This was too early for the local buses and the buses to Valparaiso, which start operation @ 6am. Totally out of our comfort zone in regard to our Spanish, we have help by a taxi guy to get Chilean pesos out of an ATM. Now we are obigated tos use his service to deliver us to the bus station (10 minute ride) for $10.000 pesos ($20 USD) or $55.000 pesos to drive us 110 kms to Valparaiso. Doing the math while being quite stressed, the latter was the better deal.

Day 0, Monday October 4,2010, Car ride to the Seattle International Airport

Julie and Miranda drove us to the airport, leaving about 5:15 pm. After our good-byes, Michael and I checked out the terminal and found a place to bunk down. Needing some water and only a dispensing machine was open, I went the the 24hr Starbucks in the airport and got a coffee to change some money. This guy shorted me $5. Wow, what a way to start a trip. When I confronted him with the missing money, he didn't dispute it, just gave me my money. Great learning experience. The rest of the night was uncomfortable sporadic sleep. 4am, we lined up to check in.