Boat ride, 220kms of gravel road and a border crossing.

December 21, 2010

The bikes had to be tied down. 50kms to cross the Straight of Megallenes, the waves can get quite large. Sailngs the week before were halted due to the winds. 80 knot winds are common down here. Gravel road was great. Wind blew the dust sideways for most of it. Border crossing lineups were larger due to Christmas season travelers. We arrived to the Camping Nautica, where we bunked down on mattresses in their gym. Norma, cooked us a pizza to tide us over until the restaurant opened at 8pm. Due to the latitude, daylight is almost 20 hours a day.

Oil Change day

December 20, 2010

Maintenance day for the bikes. Went to the Lubrication store to buy oil and the owner we extremely helpful. Thinking that it would be simpler and cheaper, he got in his truck and had us follow him to a oil change facility. They wanted $120us to do a 3 litre oil change on each of our bikes. We said NO and Rau'l had us follow him back to his store. Got us to park in his yard and supplied us with an oil catch bucket. He was completely accommodating, helpful and friendly, I wondered his motives. But as we got to know him more, it became clear he was sincere and just wanted to help up. One of the nicest people we have met on our trip. He came  out and gave us metal water bottles and ball caps for each Michael and I. We gave him and some of his colleges, Canada pins that we had brought. IT IS CHRISTMAS….

Met John and sharon for buffet Parrisha lunch and met them later for a movie. The movie was crappy , but the theatre was one of the nicest I have ever visited. Leg room was massive and there was a 1 foot shelf attached to the backs of the seats in front for your popcorn and pop. Seats were 50% wider than the normal that we are accustomed to so our shoulders never touched.  People could even pass in front of you without you having to get up. On either side of the movie screen were antique projectors. We ate caramelized popcorn too, from a bucket. Our soft drink was a Pepsi from a can.

Punta Arenas Pics

December 19, 2010

We saw Uly and Annaleen off, as they continue their trip with her family. Took a walk about town all the while thinking about our loved ones and Christmas. Caught up on some emails and met John and Sharon for dinner.

Punta Arenas

December 18, 2010

Punta Arenas is about 500 kilometers from Ushuaia.

After a great breakfast Edwardo made for us (one of the best we have had on our travels), Uly and Annaleen want to check out a Penguin colony 50kms out of town on gravel road.

 Edwardo

 Uly's picture taking handiwork.

Thats what we brought these bike for. $1500pesos entrance fee to enter the area then, we drove 10k to the ocean to find private property and these people want another $5000 pesos ($10.74can)each to walk down their boardwalk to view some birds. Sorry, but we saw enough penguins in the Galapagos. Went back to town to the tax free zone and picked up our Scotch for the ritual drink when we arrive to Ushuaia, as everyone that been there and come back has said everything in Ushuaia is very expensive. We parked our bikes at the hostel and walked down town for dinner supplies, a tour around town, up to a view point and a cup of brewed coffee. This town gives us a good feeling. Once back at the hostel John and Sharon have replied to our email and they have agreed to our Mussel stew dinner invitation. Great to see them again also.

Uly and Annaleen are picking up her parents, brother and sister-in-law from the airport, so they won't be joining us for dinner. They are all leaving for Torres del Paine in the morning.

Chile Border Crossing day

December 17, 2010

The border is 87kms away. Border crossings are a pain. Wind this morning was normal from the side and front.

After the border, it starts to hail briefly. The road heads west and we head straight into the wind. 270 kilometers to Punta Arenas should be fine for our fuel supply, but we are riding at about 100kph due to the strong headwinds. The Straight of Megallanes has white caps on it that from a distance look like small Icebergs and I actually initially mistook them as such.

Riding along it coast, a band of weather stretches in front of us and we both accept the fact that we will have to ride through it. As we reach the rain and sleet, the clouds lifted just enough not to soak us, but the headwinds remain strong. Eventually, we reached Punta Arenas with the weather continuing to threaten. Our fuel reserve lights are flashing, 19 litres to fill Michael's, 18 to fill mine. Our tanks hold 21 litres. We made it! Fuel is $661/L ($1.42can per litre) Ouch! Following Uly's coordinates takes us directly to the hostel where they are waiting. Great to see them again. Nice rustic, comfortable house, Edwardo has been running for the past 15 years. John and Sharon have left us an email that they are arriving in town tomorrow. They did not receive our reply until arriving the next day.

Ostrich type birds called Nandus, indigenous to Patagonia area of South America

And continues

December 16, 2010

We aren't moving from here unless Gas stations have received fuel. We took the bikes out in search of fuel and the first station had a line up literally around the block and started double backing on itself. This was a good sign, as fuel was delivered last night. Getting fuel would probably take 3 hours though, so we carried on to the second station, no fuel. We decided to head out to the station on highway some 6kms away. 3 cars in que. We filled up in a matter of 5 minutes and headed back to the hostel to pick up our belongings. Knowing Rio Gollegos is 370kms form here and if there is now gas en-route, Michael and I stick our needles on 100kph. This will give our bikes the range to arrive without fuel if the gas station mid way has no fuel. We reach the station and a small line up keeps us from pulling up to the pumps. After fueling,  the ride continues.

At about the 180km from our start this morning, we are forced to pull out our rain gear as the sky is looking very thick and sprinkles are starting to hit our windshields. Immediately, we are in rain, then sleet, then snow, all the while the temperature is plummeting. My digital thermometer starts flashing at or about 4ºc, meaning that the batteries are low, due to the cold. About 80kms of wet stuff, then the air clears enough to allow us passage to Rio Gallegos.

 
Gas stations here have small line ups and we see 3 tankers filling the tanks, one after another. I think this may be a good sign. Uli and Annaleen's coordinates to the hotel are bang on and we are happy. Both concerns solved and we still have time for lunch, a cruise around town, knowing that we are prepared for tomorrows ride to Punta Arenas, Chile. No gas strike there.

Fuel Strike continues

December 15, 2010

On the road after a few minor repairs and first gas station, 1/2 line up. After that Michael and I slow down to 110kms to conserve gas because Puerto San Julian is 370kms away. We can make it if conserve. There is a gas station en-route but we have no idea if it has fuel.

Tres Cerros has fuel, but we can't go much faster than 110 anyhow because of the side winds. They are very common here in Patagonia and we are experiencing them first hand. I must say that Patagonia hasn't been as flat as I had envisioned. I expect more flatness tomorrow. Between the wind and the terrain, riding for me hasn't been boring. I can actually say that I am enjoying it. We arrive in Puerto San Julian and head to the Hostel that our friends Uli and Annaleen gave us coordinates to. No one there. Went to get gas and none in town. All 3 stations empty. Tonight they expect more. Went back to the hosteria and got a very nice room. Didn't take long to check out the town.

Replica sailing ship.

 

 This is the Harbour, note no trees. Very arid through Patagonia.

It is quite current. Argentina is trying to populate this area of the country and is subsidizing the cost of gas down here, so as we move south, the cost of fuel has been declining. right now a litre of gas is $3.16pesos. This equates to about $0.80/litre Canadian.