Breakfast at 7 am as normal, but then we had to make sandwiches for our hike. He took us to a land Tortoise conservation post that has breeding stock and goes out and finds eggs because the introduced species like dog, rats, ants, goats, sheep, pigs and the likes will not allow eggs to hatch, unfortately.
Went ashore and got a bus up the parking lot of the Sierra Negra Volcano. It last irrupted in 2005, but the magma was contained within the caldera. About a 45 minute walk to the rim and then another 15-20 minutes around the rim to another vantage point. Diego say this is the second largest caldera in the world spanning 8 km across. We are at an altitude of about 1200 metres. Nice walk, we needed it as it was taking quite a while to find our land legs again. Then back down the mountain to the small seaside village of Puerto Villamil where we bought soap and batteries. After checking out this village, we hike back to the dock and get back to the boat for some snorkeling. I didn't want to but Michael did. I went for a nice shower with soap, and am getting my laundry done at the same time. I'm actually getting good at doing laundry in the shower, with the boat rocking and rolling. Couldn't bring very many cloths with us as limited space on the bikes and when we are around other people, they don't appreciate a subliminal essence of Mark or Michael, so washing one set of close and wearing another is becoming routine.
Oct 21, 2010
Breakfast at 6:30 am this morning so that we can go on another walk. Boy, have I seen a lot of boobies. I will never look at boobies the same way again. We saw big ones and small ones. All the mature ones have blue feet. Saw more sea iguanas and had some sea lions keep unto the panga. Walked around on lots of old lava. This lava looks like Elephant crap even though I have never seen it. Lots looks to be rolled into long 1 inch long turds. The lava we are walking on today I am told is about 800 years old. Looks like it happened yesterday. After getting back to the boat, they have a snorkeling expedition for us, but Michael and I decide to decline because the water is the coldest we have yet felt. I had a beer and downloaded my pics. Can't wait to show you all the boobies!!. Right now we have just finished lunch as we motor towards our next stop, 7 hours away. Lunch today was Ceviche because Suzanna asked for it. Ceviche is cold seafood soup with onions and lemon. It was quite good and they gave me seconds. I think they made lots. Sea is getting rougher as we head to the south end of Island of Isabela. Well that was an understatement. Huge swells and then they started coming from the side. 7 hours on my back in our cabin. Anytime we thought we could stand, just about made you want to V. We arrived at Puerto Villamil as the sun was setting. Relatively calm bay, just swells to rock the boat, no pounding waves to make you dinner do strange things.
Oct 20, 2010
This morning was a dry landing and then snorkeling. Got to see a medium size land tortoise (aprox 100 kgs) and lots of land iguanas. Walked through some paths and got back out to the coast. This is the dry season Diego tells us. Normally lots of fog and mist, but this year is a La nina year. Warmer temperatures so less clouds. Great for us tourists. Rainy season comes in January and then the foliage grows. Right now the Balsa trees are dormant without leaves. Many pools are nearly dry. From the ocean, the islands appear to me to be much flatter than I expected. After lunch was another Panga ride to tour some more bird colonies, then we started motoring to our nights moorage. Along the way, whales were spotted, so the captain took us to the area and got to see them breach a few times. Because they are fishing, numerous birds were to and we got to watch the boobies dive bomb the school of fish. Amazing how fast the hit the water. Just before they enter, the boobies put their wings back and become a narrow arrow entering the water. Quite cool.
The rest of the cruising was uneventful other than having a Pelican catch the boat's wind currents and follow us for a while.
Oct 19, 2010
Island Isabela, the largest of the islands with 5 volcanoes. Panga (dingy) ride to check out the locals. We saw penguins, blue footed boobies, flightless cormorants, and a couple of young sea lions put on quite a show for us along side our boats. Then a dry landing. We are taken up to Darwin Lake and past. Beautiful views of the area. After that snorkeling with penguins, sea turtles (Tortuga s) and lots more fish. Michael has the underwater camera so check out his pics. Water hear was colder and our energy was spent. After another great meal (The food is excellent and the crew looks after us extremely well). There are 11 paying passengers on the trip and (I think) 7 crew. They all know their jobs well and are constantly working. The boat was built in 1996 and has beautiful woodwork throughout. Nicely set up and very comfortable. Back to the day. After lunch another dry landing. Michael still getting over food poisoning from the mainland is tired and stays on the boat. We get to see a gaggle of sea iguanas. Probably, Diego says about 600. Watched them swim and fight. saw more sea lions, some in tidal pools playing and others just suntanning. Saw lots more sea turtles and the vertebrae of a large wale. Then another snorkelling trip. I chose to forgo this one and drink some rum. Got to share it with others but did the bottle justice. After another great dinner, I went to bed about 8pm.
We were told to be up early because they have an interesting schedule to keep, so 7 am was breakfast and off to see a colony of sea lions. We got to walk between them, get close enough to smell them and were amazed that none were afraid of us. Back to the boat for more food and then our first snorkeling adventure. Water temp about 20c, we drifted along shore and a couple of sea lions, a shark, and massive amounts of fish swam past or we swam past them. the crew is treating us very well. In the afternoon, they took us for a dry landing where we got to walk around the Island and see local fauna and animals. Got pics of land iguanas, bigger than sea iguanas, they live longer too.
Up at 5:30 am to get ready for our flight, Tony drove us to the airport. after checking in, paying our terminal fees and having our luggage scanned for what I expect to be food or bugs or contamination to the Galapagos's environment, we proceed through more screenings. I was amazed at the amount of security for a domestic flight. In my opinion, it appeared more tightly screened than international flights. Our flight was uneventful and when we got off the plane, I was again surprised by the temperature. Maybe 20-22c. Being that our flight was different than the others, we had to wait about 2 hours for the flight with the rest of the Angelito passengers to arrive. Diego, the guide was at the airport shortly after we arrived so we knew the waiting game. A short bus ride to the peer and onto the boat. Sustenance awaited and after our briefing,we were off. They took us to a beach to view crabs and sea iguanas and the remains of an old barge. Then back for dinner and more briefings about the next day. As we were both quite tired do to the noisy partying the night before, we both were in bed early.
Oct 16, 2010
Flight to Guayaquil
We got up early packed our bikes and took them over to a parking garage across the street from our hotel. With locks on both rotors, and 2 cable locks locking our bikes together, we installed the bike covers, to hopefully make them invisible to the people. As they are parked right next to the parking attendant booth, we pray the will be safe. Then off in a taxi to the airport.
We arrived in Guayaquil and Tony was there to pick us up, as promised. We spent a number of hours checking out his shop, home and then picked up his wife Anna-Karina. Lovely lady, then they take us to a mall for us to pick up supplies needed for our sunny adventure. Then back to the shop to wait to close up after the last job. While at his shop, a customer and neighbor finds out about our motorcycle journey from Tony and we start a labored conversation, his poor English and our poor Spanish. But with perseverance, we find out,he too ride and takes us to show his bike. 1996 nicely customized 1400cc Suzuki Intruder. Falto also informed us that the started a motorcycle club in Guayaquil called the "Iguana Riders" and produces a T-shirt for me as a gift. Falto also informed us that he is a local journalist. Then Tony and Ana-Karina took us to a great Colombian restaurant for a delicious dinner. After dinner they are ready to show us the town. but both Michael and I are under the influence of Montezuma. They took us back to their home and introduced us to Ana-karina's family who live next door and locally. Being Saturday night, parties abound, but we are tired and sore and retire to bed about 10 pm because we have another early morning to meet our flight to the Galapagos. In hindsight, it might have been more interesting partying with the locals as they didn't quiet down for us until nearly the time we got up, but that's another story.
