January 7, 2011

Got onto the Super slab this morning and every 100 or so kilometers, tollbooths popped up. Boring as sin and the weather started out clear, but soon started clouding over. Temperature stayed between 15º and 18ºc all day long. Lucky for the heated vests. After 5 toll booths and $6000 pesos ($12) for the privilege to ride this highway, we turn off and head towards the Concepcion (where the massive earthquake epi-centered last February). By the time we reached the coast, I found out that the GPS is not very complete for Chile. It appears that maps and asking locals for directions will again become the norm.. Got stopped by the Police for speeding and told them that we did not know Spanish. After a severe tongue lashing of I don't know what, they let us go, so being good canucks, we gave them "Canada pins".We arrived in Tome' and had a local give us directions to a small seaside town called Dichato. Tsunami damage is very apparent everywhere, but they are rebuilding.

Osorno

January 6, 2011

Got to the Moto shop and removed our wheels for changing. Roberto the owner was very gracious and allowed me to change my steering head bearings because Ruta 40 pounded grooves in them, making steering more difficult. I needed a few tools and they happily abliged. Thank-you Roberto. Great guys, the run very professional shops and touring company. One shop in Osorno and one in Santiago. They own and rent out over 50 BMWs and keep them in great shape.

Last day in Argentina

January 5, 2011

Last day in Argentina. Rode to Bariloche and had sandwiches. Then onto the border. Argentina just had to throw in a beautiful windy, twisty, perfect pavement road for our send off. Was heavenly and then they sprinkled the roadsides with fabulous rustic little tourist towns gleaming in freshly varnished log cabins and log stores. Then the border and lineups. We are actually getting to know how to fill in the docs and its taking less time. Made it through the borders in record time by checking out of one country and into the other. Then down the road to Osorno, Chile. The road out of the mountains was good, but not as nice as Argentina's send off. Pavement was a little rougher and older and more frost heaves, but still nice. Got to Osorno and Motoadventura to check out tires. They have the tires we need and willing to install them the next morning as we wait.

January 4, 2011

We changed our minds about the route to take and decided to stay in Argentina and head for Bariloche and Osorno, Chile as our tires were getting chewed up by the gravel. Had 110kms of gravel. After turning off on the original Ruta 40 gravel road, the gravel was a horrendous, large windblown rock road, that made our teeth chatter. After about a half hour of this shit, we see a beautiful new road off to our right and realize they built a new road. We found a detour and cut over to it. This lasted for about 10 to 15kms before many rough gravel detours. When we could, we would get onto an unfinished new road section and scoot down it. The Argentinians have a habit of half finishing roads and leaving them. Some ready to drive on, with the exception of culverts. This road had areas that were finished years ago and grass is sprouting up on parts of it, while everyone is driving detours with rocks sometimes the size of softballs. Finally onto new road and pavement, which was gorgeous. Started winding into hills and then mountains. Got to Esquel and called it a day. Once we found a hostel, we shopped for a battery for my watch and groceries.

January 3, 2011

Got on the way in the morning to continue the gravel and after the gravel, roads were great but the sky decided to lubricate us. After an hour of lubrication, it just threatened. Made it to Los Antiguos just before the border crossing to Chile Chico and decided to bunk there for the night. Met a couple of Brazilians on the road heading for Ushuaia.

January 2, 2011

Got on the road fairly early knowing we had to ride some gravel and lots of  KMS to Tres Lagos and we wanted to visit Fitz Roy National Park at El Chatlen. Fabulous views of Lago Argentino from the east end, then onto El Chatlen. We rode to Tres Lagos looking for a room for the night and found little more than a dust bowl. Backtracked to the gas station and the attendant told us of a Agra-tourism ranch up the Ruta 40 on the gravel. We backtracked again to the El Chatlen turnoff and to Fitz Roy. Beautiful mountains, took many photos on its approach and stopped for coffee in town.

 
Then back to the Tres Lagos gas station to refuel and headed out on the gravel. About 68kms of heavy loose gravel in tracks up to 6 inches high, was a chore not blighting  the dust, literally… Then we found the driveway to the Agra-ranch. No room in the hotel, but was allowed to camp for $80 pesos ($20) Dinner was parrisha for $100 pesos each ($25) not worth it, but in for a penny, in for a pound.

New Years Day

January 1, 2011

Late getting up, then just a lazy day. Took Helena for a ride on the bike, as discussed the night before and then said good-bye to the Brits, David and Martin. Hope to see them at the Stahlratte sailing. Checked out the town some more. Not much open on the first of January, chose not to ride today because we didn't know how much would be open or closed.  Updated my blog.