Fuerza Bruta

December 5, 2010

Last night we went to this concert type thing called Fuerzo Bruta. Check it out!  It was quite cool, with all of its special effects and tribal music. Sunday, Michael and I got to talk to Dad and Lynda and Julie on Gmail video chat and it was great to see and talk to them. In the evening, a bunch of us from the hostel went down to San Telmo Square to shop, have dinner and watch Tango. The restaurant we went to tried to rip us off and we all noted it so somethings were said. To make a long story short, everyone including the restaurant workers were dissatisfied.

There was also a jazz festival going on there so we got to listen to some great Jazz.

A week in Buenos Aires

All Argentina Pics

November 30 to December 4, 2010

The rest of the week becomes a blur of spanish classes and walking and checking areas out, looking for motorcycle parts and buying groceries for lunches. Gus has gotten over his pickpocketing experience and back on track with us to Viedma. Undetoured from this experience, we follow Gus through the Subway system to another walking street area of the   city to go shopping for new runners, as mine are worn out and falling apart. This evening Gus, and Dorien from class are talking about going to a show near the city central Cemetaria and we invite ourselves along. Meet them at 9pm after taking a different bus and went to get tickets but they were sold out. They went, we went home. Got tickets for Saturday night show. We are looking forward to checking out the old cemetery and area in the light, before the show that starts @ 10pm. Michael says he now understands why Gus likes this city so much. Because every night of the week, there is so much going on, you can choose to do anything you want and have at least 5 choices different choices to your choices. This may be an exaggeration, but there is always something to do. The locals have been friendly and helped us out on the buses, a few times. Weather has been very comfortable this week with temperatures in the 20ºs. We are told this is unseasonably cool, but we are not complaining as  the 34º temperature when we arrived was to hot on the bikes.

 Alto Pelarmo Mall

 They say there are at least 3 protests a day in this square???

Michael and I have been placed in this Spanish class of 6 students, Dorien from Holland, Jason from Minnesota, Patrick from Ireland, Jane from California from Australia and us from you know where and finally, our teacher, Emilia from Buenos Aires. She has been great and taught us a lot. Michael is absorbing this and keeping up to the teaching. Me, I am struggling. It isn't coming as easily to me, but I have learnt more than expected. I am looking forward to review the material this weekend because we have decided to take 2 more days of spanish on Monday and Tuesday. Wednesday is a national holiday here so school will be closed and we are going to take 3 days to ride to Viedma.

November 29, 2010

Today we start Spanish classes. Took the bus. Ingrid (from Vamos Spanish) gave us great bus directions and we arrived an hour early. They started us out in a beginners class which was good for me. Michael was feeling pretty confident. We met up with Gus at coffee break and he informed us that he was pickpocketted in the subway this morning, loosing travellers cheques, bank cards, credit cards and most importantly, his driver's licence. Very upset, he leaves classes for the day to deal with arrangements to have these replaced. In his violated state, he didn't know if he would be able to ride with us to Viedma for the HU meeting. After classes at 1:30pm, we head for the street Javier told us about for motorcycle shops and find one that sells Givi pannier bags, so that we can order a latch that Michael broke on the road from Potosi to Uyuni. then back to the hostel to study our spanish.

Notice 5 streets in either direction, there are 2 more streets on either side of these with 3 more lanes. Consider the traffic and then consider motorcycles splitting these lanes between cars, taxis and buses...

We are learning that locals have siestas and shops close mid afternoons. Stores reopen later in the day and restaurants reopen after 8pm in the evening and locals like to go out until late (1am) thats why they need their siestas, I guess. We also learn that Buenos Aires has the most extensive Bus system, maybe the best in the world. I can't confirm this, but we were told that Mexico City is studying their bus system and implementing many of the efficiencies. Bus fairs cost about $1.00 to $1.25pesos ($.25-$.30 can) per trip. The fairs in South America are so reasonable that many people use the bus systems extensively, many not owning cars because they aren't needed or aren't affordable. We have seen numerous people on the buses doing deliveries. During the day, you are able to catch buses on the major routes every 3 minutes.

November 28, 2010

Got an invite from Gus to check out San Telmo Market.Talked to Gus in the morning an Gmail video chat and he remembered other things needed doing and was not able to meet us. Michael and I walked about 12 blocks to it anyhow. This area is huge and has hundreds of Antique shops full of everything you can imagine. On the streets were venders selling everything too. The streets were closed and for 20 or 30 blocks vendors lined the sidewalks, including many off streets. Michael and I walked for about 5 or 6 hours. Amazing, and a beautiful clear day. By the time we got back, cervesa was a welcome refreshment.

November 27, 2010

Chatted with the residents this morning, Bob, Jeff and Guido, the owner. Nice guys but got warnings about pick pocketters. reminds us to be very careful. Took the day and just relaxed and caught up on our blogs for most of the day.

Buenos Aires

November 26, 2010

Got acquainted with the other hostel residents and then took taxi into town to the Spanish School. We are blind. It was directly across the street from our coordinates of a day earlier. Got an assessment and found out that we know nothing (duh) so we start on Monday for a week of Spanish classes. Got to meet Gus after classes were out. Went for beer and met a fellow classmate of Gus', James. Took a bus back to the hostel for $1.25pesos. Went to dinner and got totally ripped off.  Told the waiter we were hungry and got a seafood stew for 2 for $155pesos. The bowl was not enough for 1 let alone 2 and was mostly Mussels (cheap seafood) and then they wanted to charge a service charge for the bread, with no butter… I bitched, ripped up the check and threatened to walk out, security was brought in and I got the service fee taken off the bill, NO TIP.. Not impressed. Appears to be expensive in BA so will have to watch.

November 25, 2010

Got ready for Javier and removed our wheels. He arrived and took the tires to a tire shop for re and re. We went for a walk to get more money to pay for the tires and lodging. Installed the tires.  New chain and sprocket went on Michael's bike. His were still serviceable so we kept them in case of emergency, down the road. 2pm we left Dakar Moto for down town. GPS sent us in the wrong direction and we finally got back on track. Road into downtown Buenos Aires to GPS coordinates of Spanish school where we are to meet Gus (BCer from McBride area, Javier gave us his email) couldn't find school so got dinner and headed to,  Uli and Annaleen's recommended hostel. Boy is this town large, hot and difficult to drive in. Had to play local, split lanes, ride around buses and taxis.

November 24, 2010

Had breakfast with Uli and Annaleen, chatted with Javier after he arrived and said our goodbyes to Uli and Annaleen. They are heading to Ushuaia from here and are meeting Annaleen's parents in Puerto Arenas in the middle of December. We may see them on our way down. Javier and I had lots to talk about and after he left to go paint his house, Michael and I went for a walk to get cash and find a bike wash. Found both and took our bikes for a bath. 30 pesos each to have the bikes pressure washed and hand cleaned. Nice to have clean bikes. Met Sandra when they came to the shop that evening, had a nice visit.

November 23, 2010

Rode to Buenos Aires today to Dakar Moto. Just getting into town, highway traffic was stopped due to a double murder on the freeway of police. Turns out that robbers tried to rob an armored vehicle and ended up killing 2 police. Traffic was stopped so we weaved our way off the highway and stopped at a gas station for a pop and to regroup. After watching many local motorcyclists weave their way through traffic, we gain the courage and head out knowing that we were about 2kms from the road closure. After an hour of the 4 of us playing locals and jumping curbs, rubbing fenders with our panniers and squeezing through holes in the traffic too small for most, we get back onto the highway and proceed to Dakar Moto. Arrived after 6pm and Javier was waiting for us.

November 22, 2010

Got on the road early after a crappy breakfast that was supposed to be included, but the hostess wanted to charge us extra. Said no and left. Looked like rain and a couple of times heavy mist on the windshield, then the clouds started lifting. The day got continually better. Stopped for pics and a pee and 2 touring bikers passed us going in the same direction, we waved, they stopped, we met and road with Uli and Annaleen from Germany for the next 2.5 days. Great people, starting a 2 year trip around the world. Ended up in Federal for the night, over 750kms today.

November 21, 2010

This morning, don't feel to well cause 1 too many Martinis. Met with Scott and Claire for coffee, then set off for Buenos Aries. Went through Iquazu Falls National Park over some good Ripia road. (Dirt). Got to do our own jungle tour. Later in the day, it started to rain. Got totally soaked and stopped in San Pedro. Hotel overcharged us for a small room, but we were wet and hungry, so we accepted. Seemed like everyone in this town was charging too much.

 
November 20, 2010

Got an email from Scott and Claire, they were in Iguazu Falls as well. We emailed back. Hung around today and did some blogging and laundry. Scott showed up at our Hotel late in the evening. Got caught up and had a few Martinis with him.

Iguazu Falls

November 19, 2010

Check out the pics of Argentina

Igauzu Falls. National Park, charged $A85p for park entrance fee but much less for locals. Checked out the park and walked the pathways to the falls. Very impressive. We took a tour boat on the bottom of the falls and the boat went right under them, got us absolutely soaked, drenched, first the front of the boat then the sides, then the back. Not one person came away anything but totally soaked to the bone. Water was warm and it felt great. Lots of fun….

November 18, 2010

Rode hard 800kms to Peurto Iquazu and found a place to stay. Very flat ride until midday. After that we started getting into rolling hills with many Pine tree farms. Lots and lots… Rolling hills and vegetation makes me feel more at home and comfortable. Temperature is getting much warmer now, riding at about 93ºf and need more water. Gas stations in Argentina now have bottled pop and water and the ones we have stopped at now have food to eat. Nice little town. Had a great dinner and then decided to get my hair cut. Got it cut by a gay guy who charged me $A40p ($10can) to give me a buzz cut. Not too impressed with double pricing….

 November 17, 2010

Michael wants to ride hard and make Iguazu Falls in 2 days. He is leading today. Give him some taste of getting through towns and maneuvering traffic with someone following. He did pretty good except for the times Dad was second guessing him. We left JuJuy at an altitude of 1300 meters and followed route 16 down to 60 meters. We road most of the day on flat flat land. The roads were straight and boring other than the odd rough spots. Arrived in a little town of Quitillpi and stayed at the only hotel in town. Actually quite nice. Right beside a Shell truck stop, they had to change sheets before we were allowed in. Had to go drink some beer and stopped at this store with tables out front. Some loco locals too. They were fun and friendly. They had to sit on our bikes and get photos with us and chat in bad spanish. Gave them each a Canada pin and became best friends. They left before us and bought our beer. Other people came up to us shook our hands, asked where we were from and going. Very friendly town.

 November 16, 2010

Maintenance day. Oil needed changing, Air filters needed service after all the dusty roads and where we parked had a car washing stall so we cleaned our bikes. The lady from the hotel gave us 2 coat hangers for use as antennas for our CBs cause every rough road eats them. I reconfigured the antenna mounts and installed new antennas. Immediately different in Argentina. Road signage is better, road are too. People are much larger, in height and girth. They look more like north American people in color of skin and hair. Same spanish, no english….

November 15, 2010

Border crossing day. We road from Tupiza to the Argentina border. More dust, more road construction. There was some kind of public transit protest this morning and buses and taxis were blocking roads all over town. We were able to squeeze past and head out of town. At a gas station, she charged us $b7.15/litre for fuel instead of $b3.74, what a rip-off. Then another road robber wants $b50 each to pass down the road. We told them that we just got robbed from the gas station and had no money, they shook our hands and let us go. From Tupiza in the Alta Plano (3800meters) the road defends to the border and about 2500meters. At the border immigration was easy until we wanted to import our bikes. No insurance, no pass into Argentina. We had to take a taxi into Argentina (after exchanging money in Bolivia) to buy insurance, leaving our bikes at the border. There were border guards there so nothing happened to the bikes but all the same, not a lot of fun. After getting insurance, no problems, we rode to San Salvador de Juyuy and spent 2 nights.

November 14, 2010

Chris and a tour bus driver (Graham) explain the route that we want to take to directly to Tupiza is extremely rough. Graham says he broke 4 shocks and other suspension stuff on his bus driving the road. Says there is sand, washboard 1 foot deep in places and we should go back to Potosi and down to Tupiza on that route. We accept his opinion and ride the Devil we know instead of the devil we don't know. It takes Michael and I 3 3/4 hours to ride to Potosi. We were much slower on the way in because we rode with John and Sharon who are 2 up and travels slower. The route to Potosi is supposed to be 50% finished and to Tupiza is supposed to be 70% finished. Maybe Potosi is 50% but Tupiza is not 70% finished. Hard ride for the day and lots and lots of dust. Sometimes we would catch up to trucks and the dust was so bad that we could not safely pass. We would sit back and try not to eat dust, but that was futile. Finally we could pass them in small towns while they slow for Tapas, we would stand on our pegs and blast over them. The road was long and desolate. Very few towns or people between Potosi and Tupiza.

November 13, 2010 

Ride the Salar.  John and Sharon convinced us to ride the Salar with them today instead of driving on and off. The road from Uyuni to Colchani is extremely rough. The locals have made new paths in the sand around the road, sometimes 5 or more trails. Colchani is where you enter the Salar because they have built a road out to the salt. Even though the lake is dry, it rains in the rainy season and can sometimes have over 1 inch of water on the salt flats. The road from Colchani to the salt is 5kms long. Think about how flat that is??? Once on the salt, we head for the volcano on the north shore of the lake some 80kms away. Again, surprisingly, the salt is not as flat as you might expect. We eventually get up to about 80kms/hr which smooths out the bumps. Riding on the Salar is like snowmobiling on a lake. The big difference is that salt is very angular and not slippery, even though your mind tells you it is. An hour later, we arrive at the volcano, take some pics and head south to Isle of Pescado. Then ride back to Colchani on a well traveled Salt road. Chris, the hotel owner's husband, and restaurateur is from Boston. He speaks english and tells us that huge Lithium deposits have been found under the Salar De Uyuni. Sounds like 60% of the world's Lithium, and that is why road improvements are underway. He says there have been many changes in Uyuni in the past 10 years. To extract the Lithium, they are going to pump water in to liquefy the Lithium to extract it. John, a geologist, says this could create problems for the Salar as the minerals are removed. May never be the same, so you should visit it before the damage is done.  After getting back to Uyuni, we got directions to the Train Cemetery and checked it out. Pretty cool! Then we found a truck wash and had the salt rinsed off our bikes. Back at the hotel, we met, Laura and Tom from Seattle. I had conversed with Laura on Horizons Unlimited before leaving on the trip. Wow, what a small world.

November 12, 2010

Today we ride to Uyuni with John and Sharon. The road is under construction and we really don't know what that means, but will find out. Maps suggest that it should take 7 hours, but people tell us it should take less because we are on bikes. The first 50kms are very good and then comes the gravel. dust and more dust. We all spread out to keep from eating too much, but the traffic the other way fills us full. Then we hit our first patch of sand, John and Sharon are down. Then Michael. I forgot to get "the pic" and go to help. Father instincts. Michael is okay, but he broke the latch off the right saddle bag. 1 tie down later and the pannier is back on, ready to ride. John and Sharon are okay and dig themselves out. I take the lead. The rest of the trip is gravel, punctuated by paved stretches, punctuated by detours around unfinished bridges, or culverts or top sealing or road that hasn't been started to be upgraded yet. Many very rough sections with powered dirt 3-6 inches deep. The trip takes 5.5 hrs and Uyuni is in sight. Find a nice hotel after checking out a few. Surprisingly, The hotels tend to be relatively expensive. Tontino Hotel is nice and the owners can speak English. Chris makes the best breakfast we have had on our tour, to date. From Boston, he knows a great coffee, Most coffee that we have been given is instant coffee mixed way too strong and served with condensed milk. Horrible shit... Chris purculates his and it tastes great, then eggs and pancakes for breakfast along with other fruits and juices and breads and pastries. The BEST... Worth the extra for the hotel room..